ZX99 Experience

2011-09-15T11:55:00.000-07:00

Sold the Redstreak for a 2003 Honda Silverwing.

What the 1500cc taught me:

How to ride safely with the proper gear
How to change oil / adjust valves / change tires / adjust carb / change plugs / change a CVT belt
A 150cc is too small for me ...
Maintaining a Chinese bike in the USA is a DIY pursuit ... most shops don't want to work on them

I'm not negative about the experience of owning this bike ... just realistic.

If anyone asks me what to buy, I'm going to recommend 1st tier ... Honda and Yamaha.

I'll keep this blog on-line for those who would like to read my experiences.

5900 Miles: Tightened Steering Head Bearings

2011-07-26T17:53:00.000-07:00

At 5900 miles, I noticed that when braking I was experiencing some shake on the front end. I checked the brake caliber, the disk, and the front axle. All fine. Then I thought, maybe the dampening of the front fork legs / suspension was soft. I rocked the bike with the front brake applied, and noticed (by taking of the access panel on the front fairing) that the locknut for the steering head was loose, and the adjuster nut was backed off (maybe a 1/2 turn or so). Not good.

So I displaced (but did not remove) the front fairing to access the steering head. No need to remove the handle bars. Using a slip joint pliers and a wrench, I tightened the adjuster nut so the bearings were under very light loading without any binding. No binding / no freeplay. Then I appied some blue Loctite threadlocker to the threads and tightened the locking nut. As an indicated, I took some bright nail polish and drew a line from the top of the locknut across the adjustment nut to the body of the steering head. Now I'll have a quick visual indicator if the locking or adjustment nut loosens again.

Plastics reinstalled (the plastics on / off are the long time pole in this repair -- total time was 1 hour), and took ZX99 out for a 12 mile test ride. Perfect. No brake rattle, steering was fine with no binding. Visual indicator was still in alignment after the ride.

Wonder how it loosened up in the first place ? Seems like a good assembly to check every once in a while.

Read all about this procedure on Page 6.4 (Frame and Suspension), Section 5 "Steering Head Adjustment" in Haynes #4768 ("Chinese Taiwanese, and Koren Scooters").

Lights Out

2011-07-20T18:08:00.000-07:00

Needed a front turn signal bulb (Amber) and a new license plate bulb (originally clear). Replaced both with Sylvania LongLife 194NA : NATURAL AMBER 3.8 Watt, 0.27 Amp, 14 Volt, Wedge Base.

It looks clear when shining on the white plate ...

Nice Ride this Evening

2011-07-19T21:18:00.001-07:00

Back on the road again. After work I took a nice loop ride through Stoneham, Melrose, Saugus, Lynnfield, and then around Lake Quannapowitt. Filled up with gas at 5680 miles.

New engine feels great. The idle was a little low after the replacement (when warm, it was hovering around 1000 RPM, I readjusted the idle screw to 1800 RPM). Front tire is holding pressure after I noticed and repaired a bead-leak after I got ZX99 home from the shop.

One gross thing ... after my ride home from the shop, I put my wet helmet and gloves into my rear topbox. When I opened it today, mold had formed on the gloves, and the helmet didn't smell too great either. I used a different pair of gloves this evening, and washed out the helmet. After the ride, I removed the helmet liner and along with the moldy gloves hand washed them in Ivory soap. Next time, I'll let everything open air dry before storing them in the enclosed topbox.

New Engine at 5769 Miles

2011-07-11T04:12:00.000-07:00

Well, it wasn't the valve cover spewing ... loss of compression, oil seals, and other undiagnosed engine problems. I took ZX99 to Smooth Scooters in West Medford, MA, and Frank and I agreed that for about the cost of a rebuild, I could just get a new GY6 engine. I liked the idea. It took Frank a couple of weeks to get it delivered (he has a source that he feels positive about) , and installed it for $150 in labor. The cost of the engine is comparable to prices I've seen on eBay and other parts suppliers ($400).

I can highly recommend Frank http://www.smoothscooters.com/ ... his shop is first rate.

Rode it home it it felt and sounded like a new bike. I'm not sure where I went wrong with the original engine ... hopefully this one will last much longer.

Some photos of the new engine:

Significant difference ... a 2011 mfg date, rather than the original 2008. Plus, it's a 1P57QMJ, not a 157QMJ

Goodbye Redstreak label ... note the ventilation intake is on the botton of the CVT cover, not the scoop with the filter on the front. Different CVT cover bolt configuration too ...

More detail on the ventilation intake

7/20/2011 Update:

I forgot to mention that when I went to pick up ZX99, the headlights lights were dim when the engine started. Reminded me of the time on the first engine that I needed a new stator, and the replacement was not putting out sufficient power.

I mentioned this to Frank... and he swapped the stator in my old engine with the new one in the new engine. Power was restored.

So, you need to be careful with these 6 pole GY6 150cc stators --- they are not all spec-ed the same (and there is no way to really tell what the specs are when you order a new one).

Valve Cover Gasket Red RTV

2011-06-11T20:19:00.001-07:00

Valve Cover Gasket RTV, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

After replacing the valve cover last time, I thought the pre-fab gasket was a little flimsy ... sure enough it leaked. I'm going to try the red RTV ( room temperature vulcanizing) gasket maker. Check out the nice bead between the cover and the engine. Next time out, I'll see how it holds back the oil.

Here's the tube of RTV that I used , along with the leaky gasket on the right, and a new, but dubious one on the left.

Trying a new PCV Catchcan

2011-06-02T20:37:00.000-07:00

I built this with a steel drinking water bottle, quantity (2) 1/4" barb by 1/8" thread fittings held securely with JB Weld, and an automotive PCV Valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) (barbed end towards the valve cover --- threaded end towards the catchcan). Catchcan ventilated to the atmosphere via a small fuel filter.

I want to keep oil out of the airbox, and keep the flow of air from entering the crankcase.

Here's the details of the PCV Valve ... NAPA Part Number: CRB 29349

Made in the USA (along with my Goodyear 1/4" fuel - emissions hose)

New Issues ... vacuum petcock and excess blow-by

2011-05-14T19:51:00.001-07:00

Replaced Vacuum Petcock with manual fuel valve, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

It's been a rough spring with the scooter. It operated well for a few weeks, and then I had some stalls at idle and finally a cutout at a stop sign and I couldn't restart. 1 mile from home, I pushed it back.

I noticed a few things when I popped the seat tub off ...

Fuel was empty in the filter ... I suspected a possible problem with the vacuum petcock. I've read that these can act up, especially at full throttle when vacuum can be reduced and the valve starts to close. I decided to just replace it with a manual fuel valve ... just need to remember to open it on startup and close it on shutdown.
Oil in the airbox. More than I remember. I'm concerned about the blow by. Today I cleaned out the airbox, and routed the valve cover hose to a filter and tied it high. The scooter started up with this bypass.
Checked the valve clearances just to be sure. No problem here ... .004" intake and .006" exhaust. This isn't the cause of the stall.
Thought I'd check the idle air/fuel mixture screw on the carb ... factory default was 1 1/2 turns out. I reset it to be a bit richer at 2 1/4 turns out. Needed to get a flexible carb screw driver from NAPA. Only way to reach the adjust screw .

So today I was able to start it up and it idled well. My only concern is that there is a lot of air volume in the blow-by. It will vent under the seat, and some oil does get by ... this could be a real mess. I have to think about this more ... a decent catch can may be in order.

Below is a video of the blow-by:

Vacuum Diagram:

Original:

After:

Valve Adjust @ 5671

2011-04-16T09:35:00.000-07:00

Thought I'd take a look since it's the start of a new season. Also, I stalled yesterday after a hill climb on RT 3A in Burlington, Both intake and exhaust were tight, and I set the intake to .004" and the exhaust to .006". Also adjusted the carb idle to bring it back to just under 2000 RPM (it was running idle at 1200-1300 RPM). 20 mile ride this morning after the making the adjustment was fine ... better uphill acceleration. Only about 1200 miles since my last adjustment, but at that time the intake was spot on and I didn't touch it.

When I removed the spark plug to turn the crank to get to TDC, the tip looked great ... just the right color.

Engine Oil Change @ 5566 Today

2011-04-09T13:04:00.001-07:00

700 ml of fresh 10W-40. Drained via the oil filter screen plug only.

First fuel up of the season

2011-03-30T17:16:00.000-07:00

@ 5500 miles, it was time to gas up. A low 68 MPG since I topped the tank off before putting it away last November. Let's see if I can get back into the high 70's / low 80's this year.

Outside temp was 36 degrees this morning ... snow predicted on Friday!

Passed Mass. Inspection

2011-03-18T11:18:00.001-07:00

Orange stickers for period ending 5/31/2012. Another thorough but smooth inspection at Cycle Tune in Wilmington.

The new sticker ...

Back on the road today

2011-03-13T09:25:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I re-installed the battery, performed a full T-CLOCS , and installed a new air filter. This morning I was back on the road with a 20 mile round-trip to the gym.

Engine fired up on the first try with the starter ... battery is fine. The new tires were great ... very secure and grippy. Took it up to 45 mph at about 2/3 throttle.

Outside temp was 44 degrees, and the roads were dry (although there is plenty of snow on the sides and open spaces).

Starting the season at 5434 miles on the odometer.

End of AfforableFunScooters in Malden

2011-03-08T12:08:00.001-08:00

End of AfforableFunScooters in Malden, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Stock of parts being liquidated ...

Oil Catch Can : Finished unit ...

2011-02-05T15:11:00.001-08:00

OilCatchCan : Finished unit ..., originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Built a DIY oil catch can from an air compressor filter. I'll install this between the valve cover and the air box when I prep for spring.

Removed the inner filter element, and added some copper mesh (for the oil to cool and condense).

I epoxied the drain petcock in the closed position, so it won't open once installed. I'll just unscrew the whole bowl to empty.

See all photos at http://bit.ly/OilCatchCanGY6

NAPA Fuel Filter

2011-02-03T13:10:00.000-08:00

Word is that this is a good fuel filter ... from NAPA.

Part Number FIL3011.

MX Mass77 Reuse

2011-01-28T09:09:00.001-08:00

MX Mass77 Reuse-4, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Altered an old (but never used) Massachusetts 1977 Motorcycle license plate for the 2003 Honda CHF50 to display the required Moped registration sticker.

End of the Season

2010-12-04T20:42:00.000-08:00

Last ride for 2010 was Sunday, November 28th ...filled the tank with gas and a dose of Sta-Bil a couple of miles from home Today I decided that it's time to shut down for the winter ... hopefully I'll be back on the road in March. Battery is out and on a trickle charger for the winter.

Odometer is at 5434 ... started the season at 2421 ... 3013 miles for the season. Except for a bogging down experience (solved with a valve adjustment), ZX99 performed well. This year I replaced the CVT belt and put on new tires / valve stems --- replaced a headlight and taillight bulb, and kept the engine and gear oil fresh.

It was a safe year --- I now sport a full-face helmet (formerly a 3/4) and an armored jacket on all rides.

Pesky Exhaust Gasket

2010-11-20T18:11:00.001-08:00

When I removed and replaced the exhaust system while replacing my rear tire, I thought that the exhaust gasket was missing at the exhaust port. I was wrong. It was hiding

I first bought a few 30.5mm exhaust gaskets ($2 each at Scooter Crossing) which are crush rings with a copper outer shell. Here's what is looks like (on the left, the ring to the right is the old exhaust gasket).

I removed the exhaust system again, and saw the old exhaust gasket in the port:

and then with a pair of pliers, I was able to pull the old gasket out:

Check out the recessed ring at the port ... this is where a 30.5mm gasket fits perfectly.

Then, I smeared some anti-seize grease on the new gasket, placed it in the recessed groove in the port (the grease kept it nicely in place), and reinstalled the exhaust system.

Click here to check out replies to this post on Scootdawg.

avandia lawsuit

New Tires at 5385

2010-11-07T15:13:00.000-08:00

Last week I checked out my rear tire ... the TWI was flush, and the top of Lincoln's head was beginning to show. Time for new tires ! (Front has more tread, but why not replace both?). The original was labeled "Yuanxing" made by the Chinese Sichuan Yuanxing Rubber Co., Ltd. I'll be pleased to try something better. I read a favorable review of Shinko tires (made in Korea).

I purchased the following from Motorcycle Superstore ...

Motion Pro - Valve Core Remover (SKU: #41081)
QTY 2: Shinko - SR429 Front - Rear Scooter Tires Size: 130/60-13 (SKU: #142625)
QTY 3: MotoCentric - 10" Spoon Tire Iron Size: 10" (SKU: #262633)
QTY 2: Drag Specialties - Angled Valve Stems (SKU: #212358)

Received them in 3 days, free shipping. Very nice quality tires and I am really happy to have the chance to replace my original valve stems with this new ones ... very high quality.

So yesterday, I decided to tackle the rear wheel/tire first.

Scooter on the center stand
Exhaust off ... no problem (loosened the acorn nuts to the exhaust port , loosened the 2 clamps on the muffler , then removed all and slid the exhaust system off. I noticed that there was NO gasket installed at the exhaust port ... bad news ... I'll fit one when I reinstall.
Displaced the rear brake caliper (2 bolts on the swingarm) ... used a cable wrap to support it instead of letting it swing on the brake hose ...
Displaced the bottom of the right side shock absorber
Removed the underseat bucket ... the shock absorber needs to swings counter clockwise (bottom to the right) for the wheel to clear while removing ... removing the bucket provides more clearance
Removed the 24mm hub nut with my electric impact wrench
Removed the small collar fitting around the spindle/axle

Then I had the expectation to slide off the swingarm, Wrong. It was on very tight. I tried to bang it a bit with a rubber mallet, and sprayed some WD-40 around the spindle, but it just won't budge.

Someone on Scootdawg suggested using a 2 arm gear puller. Off to Autozone and a purchase of this item.

Worked like a champ ! Here's how I used it:

After removing the swingarm (quite a few turns on the gear puller), The wheel was removed by gently sliding it off the 19 spline spindle:

and off:

I broke the bead with a 4 inch c-clamp ... very easy to do.

It was super easy to use the three tire spoons to coax the tire of the rim ... much easier than I had expected. I used Windex as a lubricant between on the bead on both sides of the wheel/tire.

After removing the tire, I cutoff the original valve stem (nearly all rubber, with a few hairline cracks) with a utility knife. I installed the Drag Specialties - Angled Valve Stem. A very nice product ... all steel construction with rubber gaskets for the inside and outside of the rim --- secured by a washer and two nuts. I used blue Loctite to ensure it won't be going anywhere.

The new tire went on easily ... again with the help of the three tire iron spoons. These tire irons are a breeze to use, and didn't scratch the rims.

After fitting the new tire, I noticed that the bead touch the sides of the rim well, but of course I still needed to seat the bead.

I put on my safety glasses, and then powered up (my Sears Craftsman 3 gal. Air Compressor ( 1 hp, Horizontal Tank) . It's a nice compact unit. I got it on sale for $90 (however, the included 1/4" ID 25' hose was split , so I needed to replace it with a high quality one from Home Depot.

I set the regulator to 45 psi, and with the valve core in, I was able to seat the bead using Windex as a lubricant. I found one area on the bead whereI had to hold the tire while inflating (I noticed that air was escaping), and once I did the bead popped and I was at able to inflate to the required 36 PSI.

That's it for phase 1 ... I will check the tire tomorrow to be sure the pressure holds, and then I'll reinstall the wheel on the scooter.

Notes on installing the wheel back on the bike. Fairly straight forward (this took about an hour) :

Slide the wheel back on the axle / spindle
Applied a small coat of grease on the three spindles that contact the hub of swingarm
Installed the long and short spacers on the axle
Slid the swingarm back on ... but it no amount of pushing and twisting got it back all the way ...

... used a rubber mallet to fit it all the way. Hit the "hub" section many times with some significant force. ...

... I wasn't quite sure when it was fully inserted on the hub of the wheel ...

... when I was within about 1/4" spacing of the 3 swingarm bolt holes with the threads on the engine , I just couldn't insert it anymore. I came to the conclusion that if the brake caliper, when fitted was positioned well within the brake disc then the swingarm was inserted enough.

... I test fitted the 3 swingarm bolts to the engine, the brake caliper, and the shock to test the position of the brake on the disc ... I noted that the 24mm axle nut had no effect on the swing arm ... there is no contact on the swingarm, only the spacers on the axle.

... the brake fit pretty well ... not perfectly centered, but very close.

... I called the swingarm ready to go.
Next, using blue Loctite on all threads, I

... torqued the 24mm axle nut to 800 lb - inches (specs I have seen indicates 80 - 100 N-m, and my torque wrench is calibrated in lb-inches). Secured the wheel first by applying the rear brake lever and secured it with a cable tie. I release the level after torquing the nut

... tightened the rear shock, brake caliper, and three swingarm bolts (first I removed each and applied the blue Loctite)
Next ... the exhaust ! When I removed the exhaust, I noticed that there was no gasket at the exhaust port to the pipe. Was one installed at the factory, and removed before I purchased the bike back in May 2009 ? I had purchase two exhaust gaskets a while back, so I had one on hand to use now. I applied a think coat of anti-seize grease on both sides of the new gasket and fit it to the two bolts on the exhaust port.
I fit the full system (pipe and muffler into place, hand tightened the exhaust port acorn nuts and the two muffler clamp bolts (using blue Loctite once again)
Carefully tightened all four exhaust system bolts
Everything seemed perfect
Took the bike off the center stand and rolled it a few yards. It all seemed fine. The rear wheel has no play. The brakes seem a little tighter than before, but the pads are even across the disc.
Back on the center stand, I started the engine. After the choke warmed up, I applied some throttle. The wheel / tire seems well balanced, and the brake operated well. No test ride right away (cold / rainy conditions).

Next installment ... on to the front !

Forgot to mention the front is now installed too.

No photos, but a few pointers:

Bike on the center stand
14mm hex for the fixed axle head , 17mm for the axle nut
Removed the brake caliper and the speedo cable (single screw on the speedo "puck" on the axle)
Held the 14mm fixed axle head with a wrench, and removed the 17mm axle nut with my impact wrench
Removed the axle nut, tapped the axle with a rubber mallet, and the axle slid out just fine
Removed the front wheel while sliding out the axle
As with the rear wheel/tire I removed the tire valve core to deflate, broke the bead easily by hand pressure (no c-clamp this time), and removed the tire with three tire irons (used Windex as a lube along the bead
Replaced the valve stem with a nice new bolt-on one (same as rear, above). Again, I cut out the old valve stem with a utility knife
Fitted the new tire. It's getting cold now, and the last bit was a struggle, but I got it on using the irons. Used Windex again to lube
Got the air compressor out --- set the regulator to 45 psi
Seating the bead was easy and fast --- kept the valve core in the stem, used Windex along both sides, and applied the air pressure. The tire set almost immediately and held air at 36 psi for at least 1/2 hour (my test). No Windex bubbles along the beads of valve stems.
Fitted wheel back on the fork --- greased the middle of the axle rod, greased the spacer on the disc brake side of the wheel hub, added grease to the speedo puck (but there was still good grease in there), and then got my daughter to help as a third hand. First, I inserted the axle just enough to keep it in place on the fork hole. Then, making sure that the spacer, and speedo puck here aligned correctly, I held the wheel in place while my helper tapped the axle with a rubber mallet. The last couple of inches at the speedo puck / left side fork hole needed to be aligned just right, so I looked through the fork hole with a flashlight to make sure the wheel hub / axle end were perfectly concentric. The threads of the axle then came through the entire assembly.
I hand tightened the axle nut, and then reinstalled the brake caliper and the speedo cable (used Blue Loctite)
Then I put the bike on the side stand, removed the axle nut, applied Blue Loctite, and hand tightened again.
Using my torque wrench, I torque the axle nut to 50 n-m or 440 in-lbs (the scale on my wrench).
Tested the brakes ... no binding ... job done !

Photo of tread depth :

Photo of new valve stem :

Update: 7/20/2011 --- Repaired a Bead Leak

After my engine replacement and ride home, I didn't get back on the bike for a couple of days. Before my next (aborted) ride, I noticed the front tire was flat during a pre-ride inspection. Did I pick up something in the tread during that ride home ?

Turns out, their was no puncture. There was a slight bead leak between the rim and the tire at the bead on the left side of the rim. Tiny bubbles escaping when sprayed with Windex during inflation with my compressor. Somehow the bead was broken, but when ? During the ride home, or while in the shop, perhaps during a road test. Was the rim bent slightly (it wasn't obvious) ?

I tried to re-seat the bead with the wheel on the bike. Although it reseated with a pop, the leak remained. I thought I'd try a tire sealant. I bought a bottle of Slime Sealant. Not quite the recommended product for this application, but I thought I would give it a try. With the wheel still on the bike, I broke the bead on the left side again, poured the Slime into the gap between the rim and the tire along the entire left side, and re-inflated to re-seat the bead again. I over inflated to 60 PSI, and kept it at this pressure for about 10 minutes. I then backed the pressure to the correct 36 PSI, cleaned the excess Slime off the rim / tire with Windex. Re-tested and no leak was observed. After 24 hours, 36 PSI was maintained.

I rode 30 miles today and checked the tire with a pressure gauge twice during the ride. No pressure loss. I think I solved the problem.

Tire / wheel seems well balanced and secure. I'm not quite sure what happened, but I found a way to repair a bead leak.

fixodent

Clock solution

2010-10-26T07:55:00.001-07:00

I brought this dead watch back to life (with a new CR1620 battery). The band was broken, so I drilled out the plastic case, and using a cable tie I secured it to the left mirror to be used as a clock. Waterproof to 50 meters (I hope I don't have that problem !) .

Next time I need to change the battery, I'll just snip off the cable tie and use a new one.

Now at 5267 miles.

Odometer at 5017

2010-10-02T12:51:00.001-07:00

Odometer-5017, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Crossed the 5000 mile point today while riding through North Reading ...

Seat Repair

2010-09-29T16:35:00.001-07:00

Seat Repair-2, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Used a mending plate to bridge the crack . First, drilled a hole at the end of the crack.

Made the repair at less than 1000 miles .. still holding well (no further crack) at 5000 miles.

Engine and Gear Oil Change @ 4970

2010-09-24T16:17:00.000-07:00

After a nice 30 mile ride from the office.

Old oils looked clean but ready for a change ...

TCLOCS works !

2010-09-20T10:55:00.000-07:00

While doing my TCLOCS -- "L" (lights and electrical) this morning I noticed by rear running light was out. The brake filament was fine. I happened to have an spare 1157 in the garage, and quickly replaced the bulb. All's fine now. At mileage 4803.

Starting the Post Labor Day Season at ...

2010-09-07T18:40:00.000-07:00

4532 Miles ...

New oil filter plug and oil change at 4208 miles

2010-08-08T03:23:00.001-07:00

Z99X and ZX99 Side by Side

2010-08-02T15:11:00.000-07:00

Massachusetts Passenger Reserve (PAR) Z99X and Motorcycle Reserve (MCR) ZX99 side by side.

Over Torqued Oil Plug

2010-08-02T15:07:00.000-07:00

During an oil change @ 4208 miles ...

This is what happens when you over torque the drain plug / filter screen cap on the GY6. Luckily, I didn't strip the threads, and I was able to back out the threaded half (on right) by using my fingers. No more riding until I replace this ... another eBay for PartsForScooters order !

GY6 Valve Adjustment at 4158 Miles

2010-07-29T09:17:00.000-07:00

Need to adjust the valves on ZX99 ... I stalled in a high temp climb a couple of days ago. It has been over 3000 miles since my last adjustment.

It was easier to get to the valve cover than I thought ... just removed the access panel and the cowl for plenty of room.

I removed both the valve cover and the spark plug ... both to replace the spark plug and so that I could turn the flywheel without removing the fan cover (I used a socket wrench to rotate the fan counter-clock wise via the access hole on the fan cover). I aligned the three timing holes on the timing gear correctly to achieve TDC.

The top intake value had a nice gap of 0.004" as spec-ed ... but the lower exhaust valve was tight with no clearance. I loosened the 9mm locking jam nut, rotated the adjusting screw CCW and was able to get a .004" clearance. Tightened down the locking nut , rotated the timing chain gear twice, re-checked clearances and both still spec-ed out at 0.004".

Replaced the valve cover ... the valve cover gasket looked fine, and I made sure it was fitted perfectly in the groove in the cover.

Replace the spark plug with a new one gapped at 0.654mm (halfway between the spec of 0.6 and 0.7 mm. The old plug looked fine ... the gap was also at 0.65 or so. But after 4100 miles, why not fit a new one ? I used some anti-seize grease on the threads, and tightened 1/2 turn after hand tightening (as indicated on the C7HSA NGK box). By the way, the original plug was a quality NGK C7HSA too.

Started up first time ... no oil leak from the valve cover. I'll put it through its paces later.

New CVT Belt @ 3881 Miles

2010-06-12T12:48:00.001-07:00

I bought an electric impact wrench and impact drive set, since the "easy" belt replacement technique on YouTub e didn't work for me ... it was just too tight.

Incredibly easy with an impact wrench and 17mm socket. Quick reverse with the wrench and the variator nut was off in 3 seconds. I carefully removed the top of the variator, and used a cloth to clean off a light dusting of powder from the old (and original) belt. Everything looked just fine. I removed the old belt (I needed to hand compress the clutch to free the rear end of the belt), installed the new one, and re-fitted the variator and washer/nut by hand tightening to avoid cross threading. A forward blast of the impact wrench on the nut and I was done. I'm not quite sure how I know the final torque of the nut is within specs, but it's tight, without striping. I started the engine before re-fitting the CVT cover to check out the operation, and all looked fine (revved to 5000 rpm to observe the CVT belt / pulley action).

The old belt was still within spec (19mm for a 20mm (835-20-30) belt), and didn't show unusual wear. But after close to 4000 miles, I feel better with a new Gates Powerlink (PL30705 - Premium) belt.

Now I have a new scooter skill.

Oil Change @ 3612

2010-05-28T15:01:00.000-07:00

700 ml of fresh 10W-40. The new drain plug works well ... the screen filter was clean but a bit bent up near the rubber seal. I should replace it next change. Still using teflon tape on plug, and a new plug M12 plug gasket (metal with a rubber seal on both sides).

Now tracking MPGs on Fuelly

2010-05-25T17:50:00.000-07:00

Key Blank

2010-05-25T17:40:00.000-07:00

A member on Scoot Dawg reports that his 150cc scooter key blank is:

Dod/Hyu/Isuzu Key Blank DC3-X121 by Kaba Ilco

Check out: http://bit.ly/DC3X121

@ 3499 Miles today.

2010-05-25T17:39:00.000-07:00

Speed Nuts for Body Panels

2010-04-26T12:47:00.000-07:00

I found that a #10 x 5/8" machine screw with a #10-24 thread speed nut does the trick.

Wrenching Specs

2010-04-19T11:46:00.000-07:00

I thought I'd copy down the most popular wrenching specs for ZX99 :

Approaching 3000 miles on the odometer

2010-04-19T03:24:00.000-07:00

Enjoyed this 40 mile ride yesterday (mostly nice open stretches without much traffic)

... click on map for details.

Replaced headlight lamp (6235B)

2010-04-10T08:22:00.001-07:00

ZX99 Headlight Bulb 4-10-2010 8-14-26 AM, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Low beam was out on the left side headlight. Hi beam was fine. Look what I found !

This is really bad ... found this at the base of the socket. Source of the short that took down the original bulb. I scraped away the ends of the twisted wire. Thanks factory for a job poorly done !

And another problem that needed a fix :

Ground wire broke lose from the tab connector ... needed to screw a longer wire to the open hole on the base next to the tab connector, and soldered the new wire to the old ground wire (and wrapped with tape). Worked well after the repair.

To remove the socket, simply use the dual spring at bottom (top remains static, bottom two legs of the wire spring disengage). No tools needed, just strong fingers.

Bought 10 replacement bulbs at: http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp6235b.html Perfect replacement for this 150cc scooter !

Today's milage check

2010-04-08T08:31:00.000-07:00

Filled up at 2884 miles on the odometer this morning ... 1.1 gallons --- now at 78 MPG. Still using 1/2 oz. of Sta-Bil per tank.

On The Road Tools for 2010

2010-03-29T20:55:00.000-07:00

Updated the under-the-seat tools this season. Here's what I'm packing:

Except for a foot pump, it all fits in a reusable grocery bag secured with a web strap that can be used as a tie down if necessary. I put two plastic stiff bag bottoms in the bag to serve as knee pads while doing roadside repairs:

Inside the bag is:

Needle nose pliers
Tire plug kit (plugs, reamer, insertion tool)
Cable ties
Feeler gauges (for on road valve adjustment if necessary)
9mm open / box wrench for valve adjustment
small screwdriver
Razor knife
Multi-purpose tool
Metric hex wrench
Extra hose clamps for fuel / vacuum lines
Extra spark plug

Then, I carry the Husky (Home Depot) 45 piece socket / stubby set. Plus a couple of shop rags, 15A fuses, 15' duct tape wrapped around a pencil, a couple of large binder clips to serve as temporary in-line hose clamps, an LED headlamp, and sealing tape for hoses and/or electrical repair.

For the repair of me, or others, a fairly comprehensive CVS brand first aid kit:

Under the seat I also store:

A foot pump with built in gauge
A Ziploc bag containing my registration/insurance, a Sharpie pen, writing paper, and a single use film camera to capture events --- good or bad
A small 4 oz. bottle of Sta-Bil (I now add 1/2 oz per fill up just to keep the fuel line and carb clean as a whistle)

It all fits under the seat (shown with the cross strap for my saddlebags) ... weights about 10 pounds. Well worth it !

78 MPG at today's fill up

2010-03-27T11:37:00.000-07:00

Not too shabby !

Rode 27 miles today in 32 degree, sunny conditions. Ended the day at 2823.

Over Sized M12 Oil Plug

2010-03-25T11:55:00.001-07:00

(photo upside down to display markings on the plug)

After a few miles on the last oil change, I noticed a leak at the oil drain plug. And it was getting worse over time. So, at 2766 miles, I backed out the original plug, and noticed that threads from the engine were stripping. I didn't think I over torqued the plug, but perhaps I did. But that's water under the bridge.

I purchased an "over sized" self tapping oil plug at NAPA , part number BK 7041359 (see http://bit.ly/OilPlug ). I carefully re-tapped the hole (pretty easy to do, and removed the shavings that were generated --- they collected in the hollowed out end of the new plug).

I re-installed the new plug using the blue gasket that was provided with the plug --- a mistake. When I refilled the engine with oil, there was a slight leak (a drop every 5 minutes or so). So I backed out the new plug again, used a real M12 Oil Drain Plug Gasket (NAPA part BK 7041093, see http://bit.ly/OilDrainPlugGasket ). I also wrapped the threads on the plug with Teflon plumbers tape.

Refilled the engine with 700 ml of fresh 10W-40. No leaks. Rode about 15 miles this morning --- no leaks.

I'll be careful not to over torque in the future. New plug uses a 15mm hex driver ... the original was 17mm.

Engine and Gear Oil Change at 2729 Miles

2010-03-20T19:22:00.000-07:00

First I rode 6 miles to warm up the oils ... then ...

Fresh engine oil (10W-40) ... removed both the oil drain plug and the filter plug. The wire screen filter was clean. Replaced the M12 washer on the drain plug.

Took 700 ml to fill.

Fresh gear oil (SAE 80W-90) ... about 6 oz. Easy to drain and fill.

Why a Kick Starter is a Good Thing to Have

2010-03-19T18:25:00.000-07:00

So, this afternoon I'm riding home and about to make a left turn on to RT 129 from RT 38 South in Wilmington. My left turn signal is on. I hear a high pitched buzz under the instrument panel ... but don't think much about it. I ride several miles through Reading center to the Gulf station at the RT 129 rotary to fuel up (at 2720 miles). The only other nit I notice is that my horn sounded weak when I used it to alert a cager while on RT 129.

I fuel up, turn the ignition, and ... NOTHING. Oh no, what now ? Ignition is totally dead, as if the battery is dead. No power to the starter, and the instrument panel is dark, and directionals and brake light is out.

I walk the bike over to the side away from the gas pump, activate the kick start, and the engine is on, as are the headlights and running tail light. Still no instrument panel , brake light, or directionals. No horn either.

I'm only two miles from home, so I ride carefully using hand signals the whole way.

Just now, I checked the fuse (my first guess), and it's blown. Why though ? I replace the fuse, and power is fine to the starter, the brake light, and the RIGHT flasher. When I try the left flasher, I hear the buzz again. I touch the fuse .. it's getting hot. I cancel the left flasher.

So, I suspect that my flasher unit is toast, and I'll need to replace it. I can operate the bike with power otherwise.

The lesson learned is that having a kick start is very good thing. And an extra fuse on the bike (although changing it at home was easier).

More on the flasher unit issue later.

2606 Miles at the start of the week

2010-03-18T12:06:00.000-07:00

Short URL for this blog is now http://bit.ly/150CCZX99

Started riding this week at 2606 miles (on Tuesday 3/16). Over the weekend I put in new fuel filters, and upgrade to screw hose clamps from the wire spring clamps.

ZX99 2011 Inspection Sticka

2010-03-08T11:13:00.001-08:00

ZX99 2011 Inspection Sticka, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Passed today for 2010 to 5/31/2011 ... I highly recommend the guys at CycleTune in Wilmington, MA for a thorough, yet quick, inspection.

Pre-Spring Riding this Weekend

2010-03-07T03:28:00.000-08:00

Temps hit mid 50's yesterday ... and are expected to do so again today. On Saturday I took my causal 35 mile loop through Woburn, Reading, North Reading, Middleton, Lynnfield, Saugus, and Wakefield. First time using a new helmet,a Bell Arrow Solid Full Face. Ventilation, visibility, and comfort are just right (my size --- a large).

The roads were dry and sand free. Lots of bikers out for their first rides of the year.

ZX99 started on the first kick (although the battery is back in).

First ride of 2010 !

2010-02-21T12:08:00.000-08:00

Sunny, 40 degrees, and a bit of a wind today, and I just had to take a spin.

I put my battery back on the bike, performed a TCLOCS check, cranked the kick starter a few times to get the piston moving, hit the electric starter and it powered right up. 5 minutes, the auto choke cut off, and the engine purred.

Rode 18 miles on local roads (a grand tour of Malden, Melrose, Wakefield, and Reading), and got it up to 45 MPH (but with many red lights along the way). Odometer now at 2440. Felt good to ride, even for a short time, in the dead of a New England winter. A few other bikers out today ... we all waved.

Roads were clear and dry ... even with snow on most lawns and piled high on driveways and parking lots.

Battery is back on the trickle charger ... maybe my next ride will be to the Motorcycle Show at Shriners Auditorium in March ?

avandia lawsuit

Solving the Winter Blues

2010-01-14T08:59:00.001-08:00

Muffler Mike Front Mug, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Went to Zazzle.com to create a new mug for my hot winter drinks ...

ZX99 Back Mug, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Done for the Season

2009-12-13T14:49:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I winterized ZX99 ...

Full tank of fresh gas with STA-BIL Gas Stabilizer
Ran the bike (idle) for 20 minutes
Topped of the gas tank once again (pre-mix STA-BIL in my gas can)
Removed the battery --- put it on my trickle charger

... and that's it.

Odometer at 2421 miles ... I started with zero in mid May.

Hopefully I can get on the road again by late March 2010 !

Mid November Ride

2009-11-13T11:16:00.000-08:00

ZX99 is in fine shape again ... back on the road with no mechanical or electrical problems.

The days are getting shorter and colder --- I'm not sure when I'll shutdown the bike for the winter. But this morning was dry and cool (45 degrees) and I rode from home to the gym and back this morning (about 18 miles round trip). The roads were empty, and it sure felt good to be out again.

It feels like the end of summer at the beach on Labor Day weekend ... when you take a swim at Good Harbor Beach --- will it be the last time until next June ?

Throttle Jockey ?

2009-11-08T20:20:00.000-08:00

Just watched this with Clint Eastwood

... Throttle Jockey ?

Behind the Front Handlebar Cover

2009-11-02T18:18:00.000-08:00

Handlebars ... and the back of the instrument panel

... and the left and right mirror light connections ...

Rear Bulbs

2009-11-02T18:07:00.000-08:00

Easy to get to ...

Here's the rear access ... removing the rear rack ...

The Clear Brake / Rear Running Light Bulb is bayonet base ...

Amber turning buld is bayonet base too ...

Rectifier taken out by the Stator ?

2009-10-21T08:16:00.000-07:00

My post on ScootDawg ...

I suspected my rectifier was fried after my stator shorted due to one of the bolts backing out, causing the stator to float a bit.

After the stator was replaced, the spark was fine, but the headlights / rear running light / panel lights were dead (actually, they would be extremely dim for a minute or so, and then be out. I suspected the the rectifier was fried when the stator was shorted).

So, I wanted to test the 4-pin rectifier.

Referring the the ubiquitous 200 page "Service and Repair Manual" that's floating around in PDF format, I went to page 156 (Chapter 14: The Battery and Charging System) and found this diagram:

But, when I got to my rectifier, the wiring was :

Green and White are the same, but the diagram reversed Red and Yellow.

The test matrix is accurate for color (as on my plug, not the diagram) , and indeed my rectifier was open on (+)Red / (-)White (it should have read 3K to 50K ohms as indicated in the test matrix. Also, Yellow / Green read over the 100K limit).

So, I'm buying a new rectifier ... but I wanted to advise others on the error in the "Service and Repair Manual".

First Failure

2009-10-04T14:43:00.000-07:00

Bummer ...

@ 2287 miles I refueled and ZX99 died. Starter motor would turn , engine wouldn't. It ran great before refueling (93 octane @ http://bit.ly/281OM3 ). Then nothing ... DOA.

This was about 8:00 AM. I inspected the fuel lines, fuel filter, vacuum fuel pump, etc. (glad I had tools) , and everything looked fine.

I just left the ZX99 on the side of the road, walked home, went to work, and returned around 3:30 PM. Still nothing. I called my AMA roadside assistance service ( http://bit.ly/OHA4K ) and was towed back to the shop ( http://bit.ly/Gap5V ) . Jeff is bettng that it's ethanol eating away the carb ... that's where he's going to start looking since he's seen this before. I'll know more tomorrow. I'm going to start using Sta-Bil ( http://bit.ly/jv1rv ) with every re-fill if this indeed is the reason.

Oil Plug O-Ring

2009-10-01T13:05:00.000-07:00

Fro future reference, I may want to try this (30mm ID , 36mm OD)

from this

Daily Commute back home via the 150cc

2009-09-15T18:58:00.001-07:00

Daily Commute back home via the 150cc, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

In the evening ...

Daily Commute to Work via the 150cc

2009-09-15T18:57:00.001-07:00

Daily Commute to Work via the 150cc, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

In the morning ...

Oil Change at 1794 Miles

2009-09-08T17:38:00.000-07:00

Removed both the oil drain plug and the oil filter / screen plug to drain. Nice and clean in the screen.

I replaced the oil plug washer with a beauty from NAPA Autoparts ... a M12 Oil Drain Plug Gaske t (part number 704-1093) . Nice washer ... all metal with a rubber gasket along the inner diameter. Only a $1.39 each.

Stats on the washer :

Manufacturer : Dorman Automotive Manufacturing
Manufacturer Part Number : 091-109
Material : Metal / Rubber
Oil Drain Plug Gasket I.D. : .453" (11.51 mm)
Oil Drain Plug Gasket O.D. : .973" (24.71 mm)
Thickness : .081" (2.06 mm)
Type : 1/2", M12, M12 SO (Standard Oversized)

Used conventional 10W-40 motor oil (CITGO brand) ... needed about 800 ML to fill.

Great Eastern Mass Routes for Scootering

2009-09-03T16:50:00.000-07:00

This summer I rode 1700 miles, all on local roads or Mass numbered routes. Here are some of my favorites:

Rt. 62 from West Concord to Beverly
Rt. 129 from Wilmington to Wakefield
Rt. 127 from Beverly to Rockport (127A once in Gloucester)
Rt 133 from Gloucester to Ipswich to Great Neck, returning to Gloucester via 133 to Essex to 1A to Beverly to 127
OLD route 128 ... now known as Lexington Street from Woburn Center to Lexington
Haverhill Street from the Rt 128 rotary at Rt 129 to Harold Parker State Forest
Middlesex Turnpike from Lexington north to Concord Ave to Rts. 4/225 to Rt 62 to Rt 2A to Mass Ave to Lexinton

Service to date : Recap

2009-09-01T20:29:00.001-07:00

Photo of 1K Mile Service Receipt, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Picked up scooter on 5/15/2009, 5 miles on the odometer, bike PDI serviced by dealer
Engine Oil change by me at 241 miles Penzoil 10W-40 on 6/20/2009
Engine Oil change by me at 610 miles Penzoil 10W-40 on 7/14/2009
Engine and Gear Oil, Valve Adjustment, 1K mile service by dealer on 8/5/2009

Snagged the" highest" low digit Massachusetts Motorcycle Plate

2009-09-01T12:33:00.001-07:00

ZX99 now with an inspection sticka, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

I just couldn't settle for a Motorcycle Normal (MCN) plate for the 150cc. So I found that anyone can scan the Mass RMV site (Registration Inquiry link) for any plate number and type to see if it's currently active. I found that ZX99 was returned to the Registry in 2002, and was in an inactive state. So, I wrote a letter to the Special Plates department in Boston, requesting to swap my MCN plate for ZX99, a MCR (Motorcycle Reserved) plate.

A few weeks later, I was surprised to receive a letter from the RMV stating that my plate was ready to be picked up at the Wilmington branch ! I needed a RMV-3 form stamped by my insurance company, the old plate and registration form, and a check for the swap plate ($20) and reserve plate fee ($20 a year).

I went to Wilmington on a Friday at the end of August, and after a short 45 minute wait, I presented the letter, my old plate, and the RMV-3. The clerk was a bit confused ... she thought it was a swap for a MCV (Vanity) plate, and just charged me the swap fee (she thought the $50 MCV fee was already paid when I requested the plate, as is normal for a MCV or any vanity request).

I walked out of the Registry office, put the plate on my bike, and then noticed on the registration form that the plate was registered as a Vanity ... MCV, not as MCR ! I needed to take action fast.

First of all, I didn't want a vanity plate ... and I certainly didn't want to pay an extra $30 per year (MCR are $20 extra per year, MCV are $50 extra per year). I wanted a legacy plate ... a serial number that grew from the lowest possible MCR ( plate number "AX1") to the highest possible MCR (you got it ...plate number "ZX99" !). MCR plates are of the form LX# or LX## where "L" is a letter (A thru Z, but not "O") , followed by the letter "X", followed by a 1 or 2 digit number. I had snagged the highest low digit MCR plate, and I wanted to keep it that way.

So I hurried back into the Registry office, and walked up to the same clerk that helped me. She helped me right away (not another long wait), and had to ask almost every other clerk in the office what the procedure was to fix this. After 10 minutes or so she was able to re-issue the plate as a MCR (I now had to pay both the swap fee and the reserve fee, a total of $40), and even used the same check I had previously wrote (cross out / initial / new amount written in --- I only had that one check !).

I walked out of the Registry office with MCR on the form, ready to ride.

Well, sort of.

When you swap a motorcycle plate in Massachusetts, you loose your inspection sticker. I asked the registry clerk about this and she said I was still good until 5/31/2010, and that if I was stopped by the police, they'd see that I was in "the computer". I thought it would be safer to just get inspected again, and get a new sticker right away. So, I did. No problem passing, but the technician at the inspection shop didn't key my registration type correctly, so the system didn't accept the inspection report. He was keying in MCN (I guess by habit, that's the majority of the plates) ) as the registration type, not MCR. I pointed this out, he then did it correctly, and the sticker was issued and he placed it on my plate as shown in this photo.

I can't imagine that too many people would either care or understand what I just wrote here, but someone, somewhere will ! Perhaps a fellow ALPCA member ?

=====

Successful a second time.

I thought I'd like PAR number Z99X for my car. It would go nice with ZX99 for the bike.

A quick look up yielded "The following registration record was not found."

I wrote another letter to the Special Plates Dept, requesting the swap. I was just notified the plate is in, and I'll swap for it soon.

===

Update on 7/22/2010 --> Swap completed ! ...

I was asked by in a comment below what my letter to the RMV was. Here it is without my personal details. Just replace the yellow highlights with your info.

avandia lawsuit

=== Update July 2011 ===

We now have a third vehicle, and I tried once again. Success !

This plate is special because it was originally issued in 1905. According to the RMV web site
"History of the Plate", this is how the first 26207 plates were issued:

Plate Number	Dates issued
#1 - #3241	Sept. 1, 1903 to Dec. 31, 1903
#3242 - #7013	Jan. 1, 1904 to Dec. 31, 1904
#7014 - #11902	Jan. 1, 1905 to Dec. 31, 1905
#11903 - #18474	Jan. 1, 1906 to Dec. 31, 1906
#18475 - #26207	Jan. 1, 1907 to Dec. 31, 1907

That put 10787 squarely in the Jan. 1, 1905 to Dec. 31, 1905 original issue date.

When I picked up the plate at the RMV, I asked how a PAR plate (or reserve plate in general) can be "reserved" if you sell a vehicle and do not have a new vehicle to put it on right away. The friendly clerk said that the plate can be returned and cancelled, and held at the RMV office for up to a year. If the original registrant doesn't use it on a new registration in 1 year, then it would be available to others (except lottery plates .. they would go in the pool for the next lottery). So I can see now that if you request a plate that has been marked "Cancelled Returned" on the web site within a year, then it won't be available for request using my suggested method.

Removed the CVT Cover to get a look

2009-09-01T11:25:00.001-07:00

CVT on the Streaker 150cc, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

I was interested to see if:

I could get the cover off (yes, remove the kickstart level first)

Needed to give it a few whacks along the joining surface with a rubber mallet to dislodge the cover from the main housing.
Check out the size of my CVT belt (it's a 835-20-30 !)
See if I could release the rear pully for future CVT belt replacement without removing the variator (probably ... didn't go all the way and actually take it off)
See if I could get the cover back on...

(yes, but the kickstart alignment was tricky ... I now know the trick ... when fitting the cover, loosely fit the kickstart lever too and jiggle it a bit to assure that the kickstart post and the kickstart pinion post both seat properly in the holes in the cover)

Here's the cover (rear to the left, front to the right) :

and here's the belt markings 835 20 (835-20-30, Powerlink)

Putting together an On-The-Road Tool Kit

2009-07-29T17:42:00.001-07:00

Husky 45 Piece Stubby Set, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Building an on-the-road tool set ... so far I have:

The Husky 45 Piece Stubby Set (see itemized list in above scan ...)
15' of Duct Tape (wrapped around a pencil for compactness)
10' roll of Silicon Sealing Tape (holes in hoses, electrical repairs, etc.)
10 Cable Ties (I love these)
10 #4 Hose Clamps (they can be cascaded to create larger diameter clamps)
Needle Nose Pliers
A Schrade Tough Multi-Tool (Scissor, Knifes, files, toothpick etc.)
LED Headlamp
Tire Gauge
Clean shop towel

All in a canvas bag. I'll keep this under the seat for any quick road repairs. Not valve adjustments or CVT belt replacements (unless I throw in an extra belt on LONG rides), but loose bolts / nuts , broken or loose hoses. electrical snafus, and the like.

Other tools or items I should consider:

Tire Reamer / Plug Repair Kit
12V Pump
15 amp Fuses

I'm going to throw in a First Aid Kit for me or other humans ... (no major surgery, just basic first aid).

With my motorcycle registration I have a pencil, notepad, insurance coverage statement, and a one-time use camera to document any "issues".

And, the ultimate tools ... my cell phone and my AMA membership card with Roadside Assistance.

83 MPG

2009-07-29T03:09:00.001-07:00

Scooter gas receipt, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

My last fill up ... 93 miles , 1.114 gal fill up, yielding about 83 miles per gallon. Not bad. My last two fill ups yielded close to 100 MPG (almost all miles at a constant 30 to 45 MPH) and 81 MPG.

It's a little hard to get to precise when the tank only holds 6 liters (about 1.6 gallons). I fill to the cross bar by sight.

My Iron Butt

2009-07-23T18:33:00.001-07:00

My Iron Butt, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

I am inspired by what I read on the Iron Butt Association Rally site. Especially since this is the 30 year anniversary of my cross-county bicycle trip.

I think the 11 day, 11,000 mile challenge is compelling. But, could I do it by myself (or with a buddy or two), on my own route ? I don't think I necessarily need to do it as a rally rider. But I like the ethic of the rules in general.

I went to Google Maps and started to play. Start in Boston, hit the four corners of the US, along with interesting areas along the way.

Here's one route I came up with.

Can I do it? I would need the time (this is a twelve day trip, since I included Key West as a "short" overnight excursion from Daytona, just to hit the south east "edge"). Each leg is approximately 1,000 miles (except for the Key West excursion). Could I ride this ? ... I probably would have a tough time driving a car a 1000 miles a day. But, I imagine I could do the trip if I broke it up into 500 mile segments (and doubling the time to 23 days). Also, I would want to slightly reroute so that i would do the west coast leg via 101, and the east coast leg via US Route 1, and avoid interstates as much as possible on all other legs.

So, I'll refine the route a bit, and use this blog entry to capture my updates.

610 Miles today ... and another oil change

2009-07-15T20:05:00.000-07:00

Two months since I bought the scooter, and I hit 610 miles on the odometer after a relaxing 34 mile ride this afternoon.

When I got home, I changed the oil once again (standard Penzoil 10W-40). I removed both drain plugs this time, and checked out the oil screen --- it was clean as a whistle --- no shavings or foreign matter. I first removed the plug (on the bottom) that holds the spring and screen until the used oil stopped draining. Then, I removed the side plug and found that quite a bit more oil drained --- so I'll be removing both going forward. A full re-fill required 700 ml, but I'll check it frequently. I have noticed that I need to pour the new oil in slowly.

I've been commuting to work frequently (16 miles round trip), and getting more familiar with the bike on some nice loop rides. So far, total satisfaction !

CVT Air Flow Cover On

2009-06-24T06:32:00.001-07:00

CVT Air Flow Cover On, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

After receiving the 150cc Redstreak scooter and riding it home, I noticed that the black plastic cover (probably inserted just for shipping) was still inserted in the CVT chamber air intake vent. Should have been removed as part of the PDI.

Update :

On closer inspection ... indeed the cap is a filter (foam on the inside of the cap , with vents on the outside of the cap). So, it looks like I'll be popping it back on and give it an inspections and cleaning when I do oil changes.

Here is the black plastic cover, removed ...

Redstreak Oil Change First at 241 Miles

2009-06-20T13:48:00.001-07:00

Redstreak Oil Change First at 241 Miles, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Penzoil 10W-40 @ 241 Miles ... approx 900ML.

Oil Plug (see below, lower right (17mm socket wrench)) removed, old oil drained, plug re-installed (torqued to 220 inch-lbs), new oil added :

The old oil was in pretty good shape ... no obvious foreign matter or metal shavings, but slightly discolored. Good idea to change during this break-in period.

Used Penzoil 10W-40

How to mount Cortech Sport Saddlebags on a 150cc Scooter

2009-05-29T12:28:00.000-07:00

I figured out how to mount my new saddlebags ... here's my instructional video !

Battery : XTAX7A-BS Xtreme AGM

2009-05-29T12:24:00.001-07:00

I opened the battery compartment last night and saw that it's a sealed XTAX7A-BS Xtreme AGM. Pretty good quality. It's possible that Jeff at Affordable Fun Scooters upgraded the stock battery for me (he mentioned that he would).

Accessory purchases

2009-05-28T08:45:00.000-07:00

Thought I should keep track of all the accessories I'm buying ...

Before my MSF Course, I purchased a helmet, gloves, and riding boots from Motorcycle Superstore:

and just recently I added a full face shield, a cover for the Redstreak, and saddlebags:

A Nice 1 Hour Ride

2009-05-22T11:01:00.000-07:00

A great loop route that I ride for about about an hour of fun. Fine road conditions, usually low traffic, and a nice section through Harold Parker State Forest in Andover. Top speed is 40 to 45 MPH, but generally it's a 30 to 35 MPH ride.

Towns visited ... Wakefield, Reading, North Reading, Andover, Middleton, Peabody, Lynnfield, and Saugus.

View Larger Map

Confirmed: Redstreak imported by Jonway

2009-05-22T10:49:00.001-07:00

Emission Control Info Plate, originally uploaded by goodharbor.

Found the Emission Control Info Plate under the seat in the storage area. Confirms that the Streaker 150cc is indeed the Jonway Model YY150T-12.

Odometer Variance

2009-05-22T10:43:00.000-07:00

I took a leisurely ride this morning (over very scooter friendly roads) and compared my odometer to a hand held GPS (that I kept in my pocket). The GPS read 28 miles, while the odometer clocked 29.6 miles ... a 5% difference. Next, I'll want to compare the scooters speedo with the MPH readout on the GPS.

Purchasing the Redstreak ... out of the door

2009-05-18T07:43:00.000-07:00

I just purchased a Redstreak Streaker 150CC scooter (see http://www.rsscooters.com/ ) from a shop in Malden, Mass (http://www.affordablefunscooters.net/ ). Overall, a very positive experience.

First things first ... I took the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's RiderCourse at the Motorcycle Riding School in Beverly, MA. I can't imagine riding anything (motorcycle or > 50cc scooter) without the valuable lessons taught in this course ! I received my motorcycle endorsement on my license before I went shopping. In Massachusetts, you need the M endorsement for anything larger than 50cc.

I was looking for something less expensive,but perhaps just as peppy, than a Yamaha Zuma 125 (which would be close to $3500 out the door) , and knew I had to go with a Chinese scooter. There's a lot of FUD (Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt) out there w.r.t. Chinese scooters, so, I did my homework. I went brick and motor instead of an Internet purchase / delivery. This way I saw (and inspected) my scooter before purchasing it. Plus, I felt good that Jeff at Affordable Fun Scooters would do a thorough pre-delivery inspections and prep (fluid replacements, re-torque all fittings, prep the battery, give it a test drive, etc.). I saw Jeff's shop (simple, but with full tools, other scooters being prep-ed, etc.) and knew that I wouldn't have a DOA experience.

Jeff had a couple 2008 Streaker 150CC's on the floor, and was selling them for $1599 (flat), fully prep-ed. The 2009s were going for $1899, and I couldn't tell the difference. No added delivery, prep , or documentation fees. I paid the $1599.

I learned that Affordable is not a Mass. Motorcycle dealer ... but what I would call a consignor for Redstreak's retail store in Marlboro, MA. Although I had a sales receipt from Jeff, the process went like this. Jeff notified Redstreak of the purchase, and then he (most probably) purchased (or paid for) the bike (at whatever his price was) . Redstreak then created a bill of sale in my name, along with providing the Manufacturer's Statement of Origin (MSO) and an RMV-1 form fully filled out, and sent the three documents to Affordable via U.S. Mail (it took about 4 business days for me to get the paper work from Affordable). While I was waiting, I got my insurance set up. After I got the paper work, I took the RMV-1 to my insurance agent for a stamp, and took the RMV-1 and MSO to the Registry in Wilmington, MA. After paying for the registration ($20), the sales tax (5% of $1599), and the $75 for a title, I walked out with my plate. All very easy. I returned to Affordable with my plate, and after Jeff ran through the PDI checklist and showed me the work he did in the prep, he affixed the plate and away I went . My first stop was a motorcycle inspection shop for an inspection sticker ($15, no problem passing).

The scooter came with a brief, but decent operator's and maintenance manual (see this blog), although I bought the Scooters,Automatic Transmission 50 to 250cc (Hayne's Automotive Repair Manual) by John Haynes and the SCOOTDAWG GY6 OWNER'S MANUAL. I'll do some light maintenance myself (oil changes, etc.) and leave the bigger projects to Jeff.

As of yesterday, I've ridden the bike about 30 miles ... both in traffic and on a nice stretch of open road (40 mph limit), and the scooter feels solid and tight. I like the way it handles. Not enough miles to give a full review --- but out of the gate it seems like a good purchase.